When we left Yorkshire, the forecast for our time in Scotland was three days of rain followed by three sunny days. In fact our first two days were only showery, but today's weather was seriously Scottish, pretty cold and rain nearly all day. What is depressing is that the better weather that was supposed to come later in the week has vanished entirely - one rain free day tomorrow, then rain for the rest of the week. So much for summer.
We leave Urquart Harbour around 9:45 and head down Loch Ness. It is bumpy at the start, so much so that we have our windscreen wipers on all the time to clear the spray. The skipper is worried that a wave may wash the bow line off the deck, so the mate goes forward into the spray to bring it back aft. The wave action reduces as we head down the loch, but then the rain starts, so windscreen wipers stay on.
 |
| Heading down Loch Ness at 7kt |
 |
| Loch Ness and Scottish summer weather |
We make good time to Fort Augustus and tie up while we wait for the big moment when we go through a five lock staircase. Skipper consults the lock keepers and finds we have a 2+ hour wait, so we go ashore, do a bit of shopping. We're hoping to find a pharmacy where we can buy some fresh dressings for Peter's head, but when we do it's closed. We make do with a box of band-aids from a supermarket. I take the shopping back to the boat while Peter reconnoitres. He has checked out the cafes on one side and hasn't yet found one that appeals, so we decide to try the Canal Centre, but the cafe there only does soup and cakes. We spend some time watching boats that are descending the staircase, including a couple of yachts. Peter chats to a German sailing a lovely gaff-rigged yacht single-handed. When we tire of standing in the rain we turn around to find a pub Peter had missed, where we have a very good pub lunch.
 |
| Pontoons where we wait and the view opposite |
 |
| Yachts going through the locks |
When we return to our boat, the lock keeper comes to tell us that we will be in the second batch of boats to go up the lock staircase, so we have another wait. I take the lines of the single-handed sailor when he comes to the space behind us on the pontoon. Finally, it's our turn. The first batch of boats are two locks ahead when we drive into the first lock. There are only two boats in our batch, so they position both of us at the back of the lock, one on either side. This means they can open the sluices fully as we are well back from the turbulence this creates.
Once in the lock, we have to throw a bow and stern line up to the lock-keeper. After Peter's last effort, I'm doing the throwing and I manage both quite well. Once the first lock fills we step ashore as we have to pull the boat through the locks. The person on the stern line pulls, the one on the bow uses the line to steer the boat. I pull, Peter steers and we go through all five locks without any assistance. I find that if I give the boat a good heave to get it from the back of the lock toward the gates it has enough momentum to keep going as I climb the ramp between locks and walk over the open lock gate - all I have to do is keep hold of the line and be ready to stop the boat by putting the line round a hook on the lock edge once we're clear of the gate.
Once the last lock has filled we climb back aboard so we can drive out of the lock into a canal, where we travel at a restful speed towards Loch Oich. We pass through one more lock and this time I fail throwing - the lock is a bit deeper and maybe my arm is tired from the pulling. My first toss of the bow line is good on height but poor on direction, and it slips back into the lock before the lock-keeper can grab it. Second one gets there, but then I can't get the stern line up - eventually I tie it to the tail of the bow line and the lock keeper hauls both in and sorts them out. At least there was no one watching, we were on our own in the lock.
Once through the lock we traverse the rest of the canal and tie up just before the last lock. There is nowhere to moor in Loch Oich, so no point in going further today. Now that we're ready to call it a day, open the wine, heat up a "haggis, neeps and tatties" ready meal, the rain finally stops. (Yes, we enjoyed the haggis, in case you're wondering. And neeps = swedes - turneeps? tatties = mash.)
No comments:
Post a Comment