04 September 2024

Brittany Canal Day 2

We sleep late after our long travels the day before. Once we get ourselves going, we head into Redon to find a supermarket. En route we find Chez Lisa, a very nice boulangerie-patisserie (also Snacking, according to the sign), and stop for breakfast. Fortified with a baguette complet, a croissant, a pain au chocolat and good coffee, we stop at the lock to see how it all works for later reference. 

On to the supermarket, stock up on essentials (the boat doesn't even come equipped with toilet paper). As we return we see a boat heading toward the lock, and stop again to see it come through. We then realise that it's 12:30, so lunchtime and the lock keeper won't return until 14:00. The driver of the boat comes to the same realisation, turns around and goes back down the canal.

We stop at Chez Lisa again for another round of coffee and buy bread, wraps and salads to take away. Back to the boat, unpack the shopping, farewell the boatyard dog and a couple of swans that have been regular visitors, and we're ready to go in what will be good time for the re-opening of the lock.

Boatyard dog visiting, eyeing off the swans, who hiss at him.
We are following the boat that we saw hoping to go through earlier. There is room in the narrow lock for two boats one behind the other, but the people in front are clearly first-timers and they stop as soon as they are inside the lock. Fortunately the lock keeper comes down promptly and gets them to move forward, and we can gently slot in behind.

After the Caledonian Canal locks, it's very easy. No line throwing, you just hang on to lines that are tied to the edge of the lock and dangle down the sides. It's also a rise of less than a metre, and there is very little surge when they open the sluices. 

Once through we let the other boat get well ahead, an just potter along at about 4kt, enjoying the scenery. There is a towpath along the canal and we wave to passing cyclists and two groups of school kids who cheer when we toot the horn for them.

Canal view

At about 4pm we reach a decision point where we can go on up a little river called L'Aff, or continue in the canal. But just before the divide, there is a very quiet pontoon with no one on it, so we opt for that instead. Time for a cup of tea, but then we realise we have a critical problem. In our briefing we were warned that the electric ignition on the stove only works when one is on shore power. Otherwise it's a lighter or matches. Is the boat provided with either? No. Did we remember to buy matches at the supermarket? No. Peter thinks he will find a way to create a flame - I am unconvinced. There is a power bollard where we are moored, but it is card operated with a special card that you have to pre-load with cash. Our boatyard provided the card, but warned us that it was empty and we would need to stop at Glenac to put some cash on. Fortunately Glenac is only about 15 minutes further on, and we do need to get the card charged sooner rather than later, so we unmoor, continue to Glenac, tie up there, charge the card, retreat from the mooring accompanied by half a dozen geese (too busy fending off to take a picture) and return to our peaceful spot for the night.

Swans, one swimming with wings partly raised all the time

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